
Save the sari from a sorry fate
SHASHI THAROOR
"Having just returned from a quick trip to India, i am moved to an urgent query: whatever became of the sari? For centuries, if not millennia, the alluring garment, all five or six or nine yards of it, has been the defining drape of Indian womanhood. Cotton or silk, Banarasi or Pochampalli, shimmering Kanjeevaram or multi-coloured bandhani, with the pallav draped frontto-back over the left shoulder or in the Gujarati style back-to-front over the right, the sari has stood the test of time, climate and body shape. Of all the garments yet invented by man (or, not to be too sexist about it, mankind) the sari did most to flatter the wearer. Unlike every other female dress on the planet, the sari could be worn with elegance by women of any age, size or shape: you could never be too fat, too short or too ungainly to look good in a sari. Indeed, if you were stout, or bowlegged, or thickwaisted, nothing concealed those handicaps of nature better than the sari. Women looked good in a sari who could never have got away with appearing in public in a skirt. So why has this masterpiece of feminine attire begun fading from our streets? On recent visits home to India i have begun to notice fewer and fewer saris in our public places, and practically none in the workplace. The salwar kameez, the trouser and even the Western dress-suit have begun to supplant it everywhere. And this is not just a northern phenomenon, the result of the increasing dominance of our culture by Punjabi-ised folk who think nothing of giving masculine names to their daughters. At a recent press conference i addressed in Thiruvanathapuram, there were perhaps a dozen women journalists present. Only one was wearing a sari: the rest, all Keralites without exception, were in salwar-kameezes. And when i was crass enough to ask why none of the “young ladies” present wore saris, the one who did modestly suggested that she was no longer very young. Youth clearly has something to do with it; very few of today’s under-30 women seem to have the patience for draping a sari, and few of them seem to think it suitable for the speed with which they scurry through their lives. (“Try rushing to catch a bus in a sari,” one young lady pointedly remarked, “and you’ll switch to jeans the next day.”) But there’s also something less utilitarian about their rejection of the sari for daily wear. Today’s younger generation of Indian women seem to associate the garment with an earlier era, a more traditional time when women did not compete on equal terms in a man’s world. Putting on pants, or a Western woman’s suit, or even desi leggings in the former of a salwar, strikes them as more modern.Freeing their legs to move more briskly than the sari permits is, it seems, a form of liberation; it removes a self-imposed handicap, releasing the wearer from all the cultural assumptions associated with the traditional attire. I think this is actually a great pity. One of the remarkable aspects of Indian modernity has always been its unwillingness to disown the past; from our nationalists and reformers onwards, we have always asserted that Indians can be modern in ancient garb. Political ideas derived from nineteenth and twentiethcentury thinkers have been articulated by men in mundus and dhotis that have not essentially changed since they were first worn 2,000 or 3,000 years ago. (Statuary from the days of the Indus Valley Civilisation more than 4,000 years ago show men draped in waistcloths that Mr Karunanidhi would still be happy to don.) Gandhiji demonstrated that one did not have to put on a Western suit to challenge the British empire; when criticised by the British press for calling upon the King in his simple loincloth, the Mahatma mildly observed, “His Majesty was wearing enough clothes for the two of us”. Where a Kemal Ataturk in Turkey banned his menfolk’s traditional fez as a symbol of backwardness and insisted that his compatriots don Western hats, India’s nationalist leaders not only retained their customary headgear, they added the defiantly desi ‘Gandhi cap’ (oddly named, since Gandhiji himself never wore one). Our clothing has always been part of our sense of authenticity. I remember being struck, on my first visit to Japan some 15 years ago, by the ubiquitousness of Western clothing in that Asian country. Every Japanese man and woman in the street, on the subway or in the offices i visited wore suits and skirts and dresses; the kimono and its male equivalent were preserved at home, and brought out only for ceremonial occasions. An Asian ambassador told me that envoys were expected to present their credentials to the Emperor in a top hat and tails. This thoroughgoing Westernisation was the result of a conscious choice by the modernising Meiji Emperor in 1868. One sees something similar in China today: though the transformation is not nearly as complete as in Japan, the streets of Beijing and Shanghai are more and more thronged with Chinese people in Western clothes. In both Japan and China, i allowed myself to feel a perverse pride that we in India were different: we had entered the 21st century in clothes that our ancestors had sported for much of the preceding 20. Today, i wonder if i’ve been too complacent. What will happen once the generation of women who grew up routinely wearing a sari every day dies out? The warning signs are all around us now. It would be sad indeed if, like the Japanese kimono, the sari becomes a rare and exotic garment in its own land, worn only to temples and weddings. Perhaps it’s time to appeal to the women of India to save the sari from a sorry fate.
* Emphasis mine
This article was taken from the TOI, " All that matters" dated 25th March.2007
My arguement
Which parts of India did he actually visit to conclude thus? There are many women even in the Metropolitan cities who still drape a saree to work,every single day.
By stating that saree defines Indian womanhood,one silences the fact that the saree is not the only clothing that defines Indian Womanhood, Woman all over India have been wearing Salwar Kurtas, Lehengas, Ghaghra-Cholis and many other types of dresses.
What is this whole talk about sari covering the handicaps of woman. A woman who doesnt have the perfect hour glass figure needs to be considered a handicap? ? Clap clap clap
Though I might agree that salwar -kurta is not the dress of South Indian woman, I would still like to ask , if a woman is comfortable wearing a Salwar -Kurta , why cant she? Why call it a dominance of Punjabi culture on South India? What about the womans choice to wear the clothes she wants to wear?
I would want to see Mr Tharoor wearing a dhoti /veshti/ Kurta pajama/Panche or any of the traditional Indian masculine attire to work everyday. Shirts,pants,Suits are western attires. And Gandhiji himself said that we need not wear western attires, whats stopping Shashi tharoor?
Maybe we also need to get the symbols of Indian masculinity out in the public and not restrict them to our private spheres.
Talking about Dhotis, The principal of our college scolded an undergraduate boy, because he was wearing a dhoti on ethnic day. And according to him boys should not have worn dhotis, but women had to wear sarees. I didnt understand why? Dhoti aint ethnic? (The men were decently clad so the question of indecency didnt arise).
Women always have to be the carriers of culture, Isnt it?
Others who share my views:
Uma
Emma
Nanopolitan
Angry fix
Gaurav Sabnis
Dev Kumar Vasudevan
18 comments:
aaah,the saree....even though i have to force myself to read thru your arguement i cannot accept it wholeheartadly.the saree is simply too beautiful and the fact that it is actually the most simple of garments is almost unbelieveable.and only an indian woman can carry it off so well.i dont think the author was stating that if a woman does not have an ideal figure she has a handicap.the saree can hide ANY handicap or rather inperfections and it is true.yes there are women still wearing sarees but you have to admit the younger generation dont do so as much as their mothers and grandmothers did.iam not going to comment on the western garment front as i really dont give a damn.
i may be wrong but are not the goddess in the temples drapped in sarees?
can you imagine goddess sarawathi in a salwar?the saree is gives meaning to the words royal,elegant etc.
i have nothing against salwars and cholis and what not.they simply cannot match the sheer poetry to the weaver who created the kanchipuram.i agree that the saree is the defining drape of the indian womanhood.and it has nothing to do with her physical dimensions.unlike the salwars the saree has been around longer than,well, time itself.take a look that paintings of ravi varma,can you even imagine any one of those women in his materpieces in a salwar or choli?????.the saree compliments the elegance and modesty of the woman.call me partial but i say only a saree can do that.other clothes just compliment or hide the physical aspects of a woman but the saree compliments her as a whole.
i think you have missed the whole point of the article and argued for the sake of argueing.the author is a man and in our manly way we are just trying to ask why something so beautiful is not to be seen as much as it used to be.
and you are wrong-women are not the carriers of culture.a woman gives birth,life.she carries life.
unfortunately the new gen seems to have missed out on that.
i love the saree.and when she wears it,nothing makes her more beautiful and elegant and royal and dignified and feminine.....all i can do is just sit back,jaw dropped and let the vision sink it.
ok, so this is what you wanted to tell me.
interesting analysis of his essay.
the part about "handicap" definitely makes it appear that tharoor concludes that women with not-perfect bodies have a handicap. Handicap is too strong a word here, although a really obese women looks (relatively) better in a sari than she would in a body hugging jeans.
However, in no way can his essay be interpreted to mean that he says sari is the only clothing that defines Indian womanhood, though he does argue that it is the primary/dominant clothing. But again, being an engineer, I am using the principles of formal logic to evaluate his statement...
all in all, a perfect example to the fact that everybody has an opinion and is entitled to the same. good going.
Hey, why not just enjoy Shashi Tharoor's beautifully written article even if we gals do not want to wear and look equally beautiful in the equally beautiful attire ever invented by humankind for the womenkind?! :)
i think that what soul traveller was empahsising about is that saree is not the only indian clothing available, there is salwar kurta et all.. loads of 'em. and we come from a varied culture that has its heritage in different roots.
also if women wear sarees it is right to be said that if men are gonna throw the whole work load on women, then they need to walk in hand to and try to carry the workload for some time themselves.
its a simple case of pratice what you preach.
you are right here and i wish everyone would understand this. women are not carriers of culture. they are carriers of life (if they want to carry life). so please wear the lungi and leave the option of wearing or not wearing sareee to us mr shashi tharoor. phew! and mr. shashi, wearing or not wearing sari does not define our culture as much as wearing a suit defines yours.
My response here
I think, though some of the above lines could have been better worded, I could imagine what he wanted to say.
Maybe a slight rewording, would make it less biased.
/*********************************
Western clothing is usually designed to highlight beauty. (E.g. tight jeans, mini skirts, cleavage blouses et al).
Saree on the other hand was not designed so. It is a simple piece of cloth ( i know, not anymore. With silk, chiffon and designer sarees coming around).
Some ladies certainly look beautiful in sarees than in other clothing. And unlike some western clothing, it has no restrictions that only women with perfect beauty (lies in the eyes of the beholder) could only wear it.
Women choosing not to wear sarees just becuase they consider it as old fashioned, is definitely a pity.
But that doesnot mean everyone should be forced to wear them.
Convineance, comfort is one of the prime factors in clothing. And above all, upto the individual's taste.
So women, please don't write off sarees as the thing of the past. Give it a fighting chance. Because, there are daring knights out there who love sarees. (Definitely not for using it to polish their shining armour! :D ).
PS: Now I need to hide under my bed before someone starts piling brickbats on me. :p
@ Unicorn:The goddess wore sarees cos men sculpted them.. And moreover, Goddesses didnt have to go to work in buses like we do..
I feel Ghagra is elegant too.
The physical dimension point was made by MR tharoor. When he said saree covers handicap.. I can imagine any painting of a woman in any dress and she would look as beautiful..
The whole point of the article is valid only when Mr tharoor can see panche/veshti/or masculine attire as comfortable for men to wear to work. Saree is not comfortable. thats the whole point.And Gen next surely knows when to drape a saree and when to wear jeans and the practicality of it.
@ Pradyot: Yes everyone has an opinion.. and we have the right to counter attack it too..
Anju: Maybe we should say the beautiful attire invented by mankind for womenkind ;)
@ Puja: Yup thats exactly what i am saying..
Emma: Thanks for the link..
Prashanth:Aha?? I beg to differ.. I find jeans and salwar suits minus the dupatta more comfy and saree a more sensuous clothing.
And the whole old-fashioned arguement is so wrong. Saree is one of the most sensous clothing for us woman. Shashi tharoor sadly doesnt understand that. Its all in the way we women drape it. It aint a thing of past for us at all. And thats why the problem with the article. Cos for one Mr tharoor hasnt been able to see the saree from the womens perspective, nor is an attempt made to do so , and assumptions are plenty..
well not all beautiful things are practical...and i disagree,the new gen cannot wear a saree as well as our mothers and grandmothers did...like my granny used to say..its an art and taste that has to be acquired,like making wine.
the women in ravi varma's masterpieces in a salwaar????...no offence..but you need to rework on your imagination!!!
@ Sandeep: Men look oh so elegant in Veshti and mundu. Their beauty is enhanced in the sheer white exuberance of the dhoti.We woman would love the adore the poetry of the silk threads on the white cotton drape..So why not wear it everyday to work?
Men looked so handsome in the paintings of great painters of India in their traditional attire. The pants and shirts dont match the sheer poetry of the traditions. Why should the dhoti be a thing of the past, Worn only during weddings and ceremonies. The colours of the traditional attire would add beauty to the Indian roads. At workplace there are minimum number of Indian women wearing sarees but the number of Indian men wearing our traditional attire is nil. SO shouldnt we ensure that Indian tradition is restored and lets save the dhoti from extinction.
well well well..so the argument continues....actually men still do wear the mundu and dhotis to work,just like women still do wear the saris to work...just not in the so called hip and happening places...if you do happen to go to kerala...you will find men wearing the mundu and having a black umbrella neatly tucked under their arm just they enter the building.in fact just yesterday at my brother's wedding a cousin was in the mundu..in bangalore.
coming back to the subject-i say that the sari is the most beautiful and simplest garment a woman can wear.where and why she wears is it is entirely upto her.we wish we could see more of it,thats all.like in the black and white photos of my family album.like my granny said its an art....and you cant argue against that......
@ Sandeep: You are still not gettingt he point. Shashi tharoor complains that we women dont wear sarees in the cities. Thats my whole point. Men dont wear veshti mundu in the city. They wear it for weddings. not to work. And we would love to see them wear it too. Not in the black and white pics not even in the colour pics of marriage albums but in real life.. As in you wear it everyday riding your bullet on MG road.. What say???
jeeeez...you just dont quit,do you?
i think mr shashi should just kept his fondness for the sari to himself!!!at least the guy spoke up and said that a woman is beautiful in a saree.how many times you get to hear a compliment,though very very subtle?!
maybe i should just send you a couple of photographs of my mum and sister in saris.....that should knock you out!!!!!!!
@ Sandeep: Maybe this wud help you understand my point..
I dont get turned on looking at women in sarees.. Saree caters to male gaze.. Goddesses wore sarees because men sculpted them to do so, focusing on their round firm supple breasts, a chain neatly sliding down and her navel seen through . Not all goddesses are draped in sarees either. Some images of Bhagavathy are only covered by ornaments. Secondly. Raja ravi verma ( to quote my friend ) intentionally draped the goddesses in transparent or sensual sarees to fight colonial civilization mission and the british claim that Indian goddesses as immoral and promiscuous. ( mother mary dressed in gowns and then to present our goddesses as sexually liberated and not deprived of her sexuality). So Saree is a complete male construction of tradition.
Continuing with the debate. there are many forms of saree too. Would you like to see a woman draped in a Koli saree, the one that fisher women wear? the homogenisation of Saree and silencing of different forms of it is also problematic. Even in Kerala, women used to wear saree in a different way not the way they wear it now. When you claim for Indianess, what would you then consider as Indian? Isnt it selective? Which form of saree wud you consider as south indian? The ladies in coorg, tamil nadu, kerala, andhra, each wore saree differently. And there are also histories of women not wearing saree at all, eg the Nizams of hyderabad. How then would you constitute south indianess or Indianness? The statement that saree defines Indianness or Indian womanhood is problematic
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